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Noodles in the Mountains - Yamakoshi
In any description of Japanese soba noodles, the term ‘buckwheat’ is almost unavoidable - restaurants almost unfailingly write ‘soba buckwheat noodles’ in English to clarify the term. Patrons typically reply with a polite nod and say, ‘oh yes, of course - buckwheat!’ But what IS buckwheat, anyway?
Unknown to many, buckwheat is entirely different from other grains - it is a flowering plant (not a grass), harvested for its seeds. The seeds are milled into flour and can then be made into anything from good ol’ buckwheat pancakes to delicate noodles known as “soba.” Soba specialty restaurants in Japan often use centuries-old family recipes and methods to create their own trademark varieties.
Yamakoshi is one such restaurant, located in Gifu Prefecture, in the World Heritage site of Shirakawa-go - a town comprised of picturesque thatched-roof farmhouses which evoke images of old Japan. In the daytime, Shirakawa-go reluctantly assumes the contrived, Disney World-like atmosphere of most designated cultural sites, with throngs of tourists snapping photos and poking into the numerous souvenir shops. In the midst of the mayhem, Yamakoshi is an oasis of refined simplicity, tranquility, and really great food.
Noodles are the specialty at Yamakoshi, but the restaurant also features delicious freshwater mountain sweetfish (‘ayu’), grilled on an open brazier. The restaurant also serves a unique variety of tea made of (you guessed it!) buckwheat, known as “soba-cha.” It has a delicious, smoky aroma and a smooth, delicate taste - a perfect complement to the meal’s sharp, varied flavors .
The noodles are cooked until just soft, and have a pleasant, barely detectable grain-like texture. They are drained thoroughly, set in a large bowl and immersed in a wonderful, sweet ‘tsuyu’ broth. Condiments of grated daikon radish, spring onion and horseradish (wasabi) add warmth and spice to the salty-sweet broth. No wonder you’re supposed to slurp your noodles - it’s much too good to eat slowly!
For more information on Yamakoshi and Shirakawa-go, please send an email or contact G H A Travel at (800) 442-2240.
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